How to Design and Construct a Dock?
Important Materials and construction Process
Docks built by DIY,ers predicated on plans they've purchased or drawn themselves, as well as docks created by an area builder, are usually constructed the old-fashioned way: from treated wood with galvanized screws, bolts and nuts.
Aluminum (for legs and framework) and synthetics, such as for example plastic (for decking material), are the standards in kit docks made available from most suppliers today. The benefits of using aluminum and composites over wood in combined weight savings, durability, strength and weather resistance are undeniable.
As the aluminum-and-plastic kit models are easier to put in and remove, wood is more aesthetically pleasing and blends in with the surroundings. But when you can't always count on your children or buddies to help when it's dock-maintenance time, go with aluminum and plastic – your back will thank you. Installing and removing a wood dock is almost impossible without help or perhaps a wheel system to carry the loads.
Should you go with a wood dock, be sure to check local regulations regarding chemical treatment and lake concerns; some local ordinances prohibit the usage of chemically treated wood because of the fear so it will contaminate lake water.
Hardware should always be galvanized for corrosion resistance; when you can afford it, go with stainless steel. If you're building with wood, never use nails; coated or galvanized decking screws are best.
Design and Layout
Your shoreline and lake-bottom configuration, as well as local ordinances and regulations, will all have bearing on the type, size, shape and location of your dock. Whether you're repairing an existing dock or replacing it, and particularly if you're planning an extension or complete replacement, it's best to check with local authorities on existing regulations. You might find yourself in violation and susceptible to fines, or worse: having to tear down what you've built.
Generally, you will need at the least several feet of water depth to dock a boat any bigger than a PWC or fishing skiff. That could mean extending your dock out a lot more than you originally thought. Like, my dock is 70 feet from shoreline to end, but only the outermost 45 feet roughly is usable; the first two and a half sections (each is 10 feet long) only serve to have out past the shallow areas near shore.
A typical stern-drive boat needs a few feet of depth at the stern so the outdrive won’t ground on the lake bottom. A lighter outboard rig can usually get by with less depth, but 2 feet should be considered the minimum.
If your shoreline is very shallow and extending the dock out is too costly or not allowed by local regulations, you may have to consider dredging (removing sediment from the lake bottom to increase depth). While the technique is simple – a backhoe operator spends a few days digging out the area – the process is not; it can be very complex when it involves regulations and environmental concerns. Again, a thorough check with local and state authorities is in order before any operations begin.
Careful planning will result in less crowding when everyone’s on the dock and you’re juggling the various boats and toys to get the full use of your dock. Factor in how many boats will use the dock at one time, including any guests who may want to tie up when it’s time for a cookout.
It also pays to watch the typical wind direction and wave action on the lake; if the winds blow at your shoreline and waves from passing boats are large and menacing, consider adding “fingers” (L- or T-shaped extensions) to the main section of your dock. These can provide protection from buffeting winds and passing boat wakes; you can dock your boat on the inside of these extensions, so it’s pushed away from the dock by the wind and waves. The extensions also add stability to a long dock by creating a larger “footprint” at the end. They also add cost and complexity, so remember that when it’s budget time. If you get stuck at this point, try Residential Marine Construction Pass Christian Mississippi, then.
What About Your Winter worries?
If your lake will freeze, a winter plan or your new dock is just a must. Many kit docks are created to be removed in fall and reinstalled in spring – some even by one person. While removal could be the safest choice, leaving the dock in and “bubbling” it's another.
Permanent docks are typically bubbled using one of several methods. Most common is definitely an “ice eater,” a large electric motor with propeller designed to be positioned strategically off the dock in the water during the winter months, operated via thermostat and timer switches.
The propeller draws warmer water up from the lake bottom and pushes it back toward the dock; the resulting turbulence keeps the lake from freezing and damaging the dock.
Of course, you can find potential issues; the machine could fail, allowing the water to freeze and move the dock whilst the ice heaves and settles. If you can't get around your camp periodically to test things over, you can ask a local agency like Residential Dock Construction Agency Pass Christian Mississippi to complete it.
Ready for summer?
Irrespective of your decision, a well-planned dock provides decades of enjoyment. Our supplier list will provide you with a head start, but an on the web look for “boat docks” will provide you with great resources, too. Try to choose suppliers located a fair distance from your own camp; docks are heavy, so freight charges are a huge element in overall cost.